Dry cutting is gaining popularity in the natural hair community – here’s why

Written by Ata-Owaji Victor

Dry haircuts allow both the client and stylist to see how the hair will fall naturally, says session stylist and hair expert Zateesha Barbour.

Whether you arrived at the decision to wear your coily or tightly textured hair naturally through watching hours of natural hair transformation videos, or if you just decided it’s time for a change, it can feel overwhelming knowing where to start with styling, treating and maximising your afro. 

From leave-in conditioners that nourish the hair and create springy, happy coils, to advice on minimising heat damage, there’s one part of the conversation that’s been left out: trims and haircuts. 

Often excluded due to the pressure Black women experience to retain hair length (usually at the expense of hair health) or due to the lack of visibility around knowing how to style afro hair, a cut seems to follow the same process every time: wash, dry, straighten, cut. A process that not only emphasises the length of the hair and anxiety around it but one that fails to consider the natural growth pattern of the hair. I propose to you instead, the dry afro cut. 

Regardless of how you choose to wear your hair, cutting or trimming away damage will always be a consideration – whether you dry cut or follow a wash, dry, straighten, cut routine. 

“Dry haircuts allow both the client and stylist to see how the hair will fall naturally,” explains session stylist and hair expert Zateesha Barbour. 

The beauty of the dry afro cut lies in the cutting technique itself: “It’s a game-changer even for looser curl patterns, especially when creating a look like a curly fringe,” says Barbour.

Don’t get me wrong, though – dry cutting is not a new technique. According to natural hair expert Subrina Kidd, dry cutting is a method that hair stylists have used for years. 

“When I was training, afro hair was considered a separate subject, and even then it was chemically straightened, it wasn’t actually about understanding the structure of the hair or how to cut it.

“Then, when I entered the industry, I would always choose the models with tightly coiled hair because I wanted the training and to be fearless as a hairstylist.” 

Now, when describing cutting afro hair that dried in its natural state, the natural hair expert says, “Natural hair is like fabric – dressmakers learn about different fabrics and how to treat them accordingly. Hair is the same. When it’s not blown out you can understand the coil, the shrinkage and how it will sit at the end.”

“Dry cutting allows me to be able to envision the shape of a haircut before I pick up my scissors, which in turn allows for both fewer split ends and ease of styling for clients at home,” says Barbour. 

When looking for a stylist for a dry afro cut, Barbour says it’s important to do some research prior to the appointment. “Some clients have come to me with shocking haircuts because they had been done by an inexperienced stylist who cut their coiled hair when it was wet and didn’t account for naturally occurring changes like shrinkage. With dry haircuts, there are no surprises and expectations are more easily met.”

Afro dry cuts are also good news for anyone navigating heat and tension damage, says Barbour. “When hair is wet it can sometimes mask visible damage, so even though a haircut can sometimes be a scary word for clients because it may mean they lose length, in the long run, it actually helps retain length over time if done at regular intervals.”

Post-cut anxiety is a reality for many clients after their first dry afro cut, cautions Kidd. “So many Black women are used to wearing their hair blown out or chemically straightened and while options are great, I hope dry afro cutting allows for a shift towards loving our natural hair texture. I often have appointments with clients and after they leave the salon they ring me with a question like: ‘Why don’t I feel amazing?’ I believe this is due to a lack of visibility.” 

Even though non-chemically-processed hair has become more popular, Kidd says that there is still some work to be done. “I have clients who have stayed natural for their entire life and still mainly wear their hair stretched out because twisting every night or styling it constantly can feel like a chore. 

“I hope with dry cuts on the rise – allowing for more naturally sculpted hair and increased visibility – more people will feel confident.”

Main image: Getty

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