Grungy, punky and edgy: How Christmas makeup turned unconventional

Apple-red lips, gold glittery eyes, and gleaming cheeks: this is the face of Christmas past.

This year, Christmas makeup releases have taken a darker turn. Instead of an abundance of the former festive face, while it still certainly exists, smokier hues and products with more ‘edge’ have come bursting onto the shelves.

Festive makeup is seemingly getting less festive – and more unconventional.

Beauty trends often reflect the society in which they are borne, so it makes sense that with the bleak socio-economic situation, we’ve embrace the style shown in TV shows like Wednesday and Euphoria, the grunge glam beauty revival, and that makeup is now turning away from the traditional.

Take Dior’s latest collection – aside from a glittery red nail polish – the eye quads have blackened shades and the lipsticks come in deep chocolate brown and fleshy coral.

Meanwhile Isamaya Ffrench’s newly awaited collection is the anthesis of winter, with its bright pops of colour and yesteryear metallic-finish lipsticks. Looking at it, it would be better placed as a summer collection.

Victoria Beckham just launched a bright pink lipstick and of the new Christmas collection by Lisa Eldridge, her blue/green palette is the one that sold out the fastest by a clear stretch.

As the consumer grows tried of cliche, the makeup industry is responding to that shift.

Renowned celebrity makeup artist Lisa Eldridge, tells us: ‘Nineties grunge is certainly having a big moment, but thankfully the days of one style or trend for everyone are over.

‘There aren’t any rules anymore and there’s real joy in that.’

Although, people are still inspired by trends. Since Netflix’s Wednesday came out, MAC haven’t been able to keep their lip liner in the shade Nightmoth in stock (a deep purple). It’s the shade Jenna Ortega wears in the show and fans have been rapidly trying to cop one to repeat the look at home.

The difference now is, the rules around what goes in makeup have, thankfully, relaxed.

Lisa adds: ‘In the last few years I have sensed a real punk mood in beauty.

‘I think people have become generally fatigued with the classic “Instagram Face” of heavy contouring and highlighting. Younger generations are embracing who they are, imperfections and all and it’s so incredibly refreshing to see.’

She recommends switching up a traditional red lip for a ‘vampy, gothic lip and pared back face’.

‘A sweep of a plush, velvety blackcurrant lip colour, teamed with clean skin and a lick of mascara would keep things fresh, modern and cool whilst still giving you that extra oomph,’ Lisa advises.

‘Alternatively a colourful almost summer-y eye can make a refreshing change to smokey lined eyes – a soft cloud of colour that appeals to you, washed across your eye gives a playful feel to an otherwise wintry look.’

Your unconventional Christmas beauty look book

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Lisa Eldridge Velvet Sorcery

The key word for lips is ‘vampy’ (Picture: Lisa Eldridge)

Velvet Sorcery sold out first in Lisa’s latest lipstick range – much faster than the festive reds. Her matching Sorcery eyeshadow palette also went first.

Buy for £26 at Lisa Eldridge.

Victoria Beckham Beauty Posh Lipstick in Alter Ego

Think pink this Christmastime (Picture: Victoria Beckham Beauty)

There’s nothing festive about this new juicy pink – it makes us think of holidays and sunshine.

Buy for £34 at Victoria Beckham Beauty.

Kure Bazaar in Or Santal

Duochrome offers double the shades and double the impact (Picture: Kure Bazaar)

New for Christmas, this nail polish is a duochrome, flipping between pink and orange-gold. Duochromes aren’t festive, but more brands are branching out into them.

Buy for £15 at John and Ginger.

Deck of Scarlet Dual Drama Liquid Eyeliner

It’s all about subtle shimmer (Picture: Deck of Scarlet)

Take inspiration from this bold way to draw on eyeliner, and the duochrome effect – here going from black to a gunmetal blue.

Buy for £25 at Deck of Scarlet.

MAC Cosmetics Lip Liner in Nightmoth

The deep plum shade is giving Y2K meets goth (Picture: MAC Cosmetics)

Jenna Ortega wearing Nightmoth in Netflix’s Wednesday (Picture: Netflix)

This is the lip liner of the moment, with the trick being to mix it with clear gloss for a deep glassy effect – which is how Wednesday Addams wears it.

Buy for £18 at Mac.

Nailberry in Stargazer

Home manis that’ll wow at festive parties (Picture: Nailberry)

Another duochrome polish, this also veers more into springtime territory – and yet it’s part of the brands Christmas collection.

Buy for £16 at Space NK.

Dior Eyeshadow in Cosmic Eyes

A smokey eye with a neutral twist (Picture: Dior)

Smoke things out with this cool-toned greige set of colours.

Buy for £51.50 at Boots.

Isamaya Beauty Wild Star Collection

Who said Christmas meant no colour? (Picture: Isamaya Beauty)

This entire collection is a departure from all things Christmas, with its vibrant colours and finishes. The eye palette and lipsticks are particular highlights.

Shop from £22 at Isamaya Beauty.

Beauty Pie’s latest trend report predicts grunge glam and Avril Lavigne inspired makeup will be big next year, based on current search data.

Lisa notes that trends always come back around, and while the soft return of ‘heroine chic’ is horrifying in fashion and health terms, it provides ample alternative makeup inspiration.

Dominic Skinner, a lead makeup artist at MAC Cosmetics, says ‘alternative Christmas’ is the key term here.

‘People have always been searching for ways to make the holidays more personal and specific to their taste and that trend has now hit the beauty world,’ he says.

‘This year we have seen makeup trends become more imaginative and creative so as we come into the festive season it makes sense for this experimentation to continue.

‘The festive season is the perfect time to experiment, try a new shade and try something different.

‘This need for unconventional makeup looks and something more unique is not going anywhere soon. In effect it’s a rejection from the social standards of what beauty should be and more what it could be.’

Like Lisa, Dominic believes people are ‘bored’ of Instagram makeup – because by and large, it’s ‘unachievable’.

‘People are looking for something more real, relaxed and them,’ he says.

‘I think it’s great that we shifting our perspective on beauty and using makeup as a way to enhance our features instead of covering them up.’

His top look this winter is femme fatale inspired, opting for smoked out colours that give ‘film noir main character vibes’.

Put down the glossy red – and instead pick up a bold blue or chalky purple grey. You might just love how it all comes together.

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