Um, Pls Read This Before You Try Lip Blushing (!)

Little fact about me: I’ve got a full rotation of lip stains, lip glosses, and tinted lip balms in my bag at all times (srsly). Like, you’ll rarely see me leave the house without something defining my lips, which is ultimately what led me to consider lip blushing, a type of semi-permanent makeup that adds a wash of color to your lips and helps define your lip shape for years. Think: natural-looking lipstick 24/7, but without the mess—so, you know, my dream.

That being said, any cosmetic treatment that’s even slightly permanent requires a massive amount of research. So to find out whether or not lip blushing is safe, how painful it is, and what to expect during an appointment, we tapped four experts for help—including board-certified plastic surgeonJohnathan Cabin, MD; physician assistant Amy Koberling; permanent makeup artist Stella Fixman; and cosmetic tattoo specialist Christopher Drummond—and got the first-person account from one Cosmo writer who actually got lip blushing…with less-than-stellar results. Keep reading, and get ready to take notes.

Not ready to commit to lip blushing? Try one of these lip colors:

What is lip blushing?

Lip blushing is semi-permanent, tattooed makeup that tints your lips using a cosmetic tattoo gun (on a low setting) and water-based inks. The result is kind of similar to lip fillers—in that your lips will look a little fuller simply by being defined and enhanced with pigment—but lip blushing won’t actually change the shape or feeling of your lips. Instead, it’ll just leave you with a soft, shaded-in color that can enhance your lip symmetry, cover uneven pigmentation or scars, and give you the illusion of bigger, fuller lips.

Does lip blushing damage your lips?

No—lip blushing, when done safely and correctly, will not “damage” your natural lips. The emphasis here is on “correctly,” which is why it’s so important to know what to look for before your appointment (more on that below). But, in general, “it’s unlikely you will have any long-term damage to your lips from lip blushing,” says Koberling.

Lip blushing generally doesn’t leave behind any scars, but it can leave your lips swollen, irritated, and scabbed-over for the first week. That being said, there are always risks to be aware of with any cosmetic procedure, especially if you’re prone to irritation around your lips, so make sure to discuss any concerns, allergies, and skin sensitivities with your artist before you make the appointment.

Is lip blushing safe?

“Lip blushing is a largely safe treatment when performed by a qualified and experienced professional,” says Koberling. Still, to set yourself up for the best and safest results, it’s vital that you discuss your skin history with your artist beforehand, like whether you deal with eczema, acne, cold sores, or rashes around your mouth, so they can determine if you’re a good candidate, or if they need to take special precautions (like going slower or using lighter strokes) to avoid irritation.

But, again, a semi-permanent tattoo is only as safe as your artist makes it. “With all procedures, there can be complications, so be sure the professional you choose is well-equipped to handle any that may arise,” adds Koberling (more on how to suss that out below).

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What are the cons of lip blushing?

The biggest con of lip blushing is that it’s a semi-permanent procedure, meaning it can be difficult (and sometimes impossible) to remove the pigments from your skin if you don’t like the outcome. Another con—or pro, depending on how scared you are of commitment—is that the color won’t stay vivid forever, thanks to constant exfoliation (see: eating, drinking, licking your lips, brushing your teeth, washing your face, etc.), which means you may need to pay for a touch-up every year.

Is lip blushing better than lip injections?

Lip blushing isn’t “better” or “worse” than lip injections—it’s all just personal preference. Lip blushing will add color and definition to your lips, while lip fillers will add volume and shape. They both last about a year before requiring touch-ups, take a week or so to heal, and have about the same level of pain. So again, it really just depends on the results you want, but know that you also don’t have to choose: You can get both lip blushing and lip injections, as long as you wait six weeks in between, and start with the filler first.

Does lip blushing make lips look bigger?

Yep, lip blushing can make your lips look a little bigger. No, lip blushing can’t add any real volume, but it can make your natural lips look more defined, especially around the Cupid’s bow, which will give you the illusion of more depth and fullness. You can also chat with your artist to see if they’re able to add a color gradient to the edges of your lips to increase the volumizing effect even more. But, again, if you’re looking for true volume, go for lip filler (or both).

What happens at a lip-blushing appointment?

What happens during a lip-blushing appointment will depend on your specific artist’s routine and technique, but generally, the whole process will take about an hour and a half. First, they’ll coat your lips in a numbing cream, letting it sit for 20-30 minutes before wiping it off, then map out your lip line with a gel pen and a white pencil so you can approve of the shape before they start tattooing.

Most semi-permanent makeup artists will tattoo the outline of your lips first before filling in the center, taking breaks to slather on more numbing cream throughout the process to minimize discomfort. After they’ve finished tattooing, they’ll coat your lips with soothing moisturizer to help calm down irritation, and then chat with you about specific post-care instructions.

How long does lip blushing last?

Typically, lip blushing lasts between two to three years and will gradually lighten and fade over time, until your lips slowly return to their natural shade. So you can expect your lips to look far lighter after two years than they will after six months, which is why many tattoo artists recommend yearly touch-ups to prolong the lip color you want.

How much does lip blushing cost?

The cost will totally depend on where you live (bigger cities will cost more than rural areas) and how skilled your tattoo artist is (read reviews! Find their Instagram! Look through their tagged photos! DM strangers for their honest opinions on their experience!), but you can expect lip blushing to cost anywhere from $450 to $1500, with touch-ups ranging from free to $400. And please don’t go for the cheapest deal just to save some cash—this is a tattoo that’ll last for years…on your face. If it doesn’t feel a little pricey, it’s probably too good to be true.

How bad does lip blushing hurt?

Even though, yes, it’s a tattoo on your mouth, your tattoo artist should use a topical numbing cream that’ll significantly dull your pain. You’ll likely only feel a few sharp pinches, cosmetic tattoo specialist Christopher Drummond previously told Cosmo. In fact, as our tester discovered during her own lip-blushing treatment, experiencing major pain is a big red flag that something’s wrong (more on that below).

The lip-blushing healing process:

As with any tattoo, there’s a healing process. Immediately after your appointment, your lips will appear super bright and stained, but don’t panic. “You’ll be a bit sore and swollen and scabs may develop,” says Koberling. Moisturize your lips with a skin-repairing lip balm three to four times a day (basically, whenever you think about it) for the first few weeks. Then, once your lips completely heal—which usually takes four weeks—the color will fade up to 50 percent and blend naturally with your lips.

Can lip blushing go wrong?

Okay, so now you know what should happen when you try lip blushing. But, as with any cosmetic procedure, there’s always the incredibly unlucky handful of people who have a terrible experience, with even worse results. And that, unfortunately, is exactly what happened with writer Tanya Akim, whose botched lip blushing now exists as a PSA for red flags. Read it carefully below, then go forth, armed with all of the knowledge, before making yourself an appointment.

Before I tried lip blushing, I did a ton of research—I read blogs, medical journals, and editor reviews, and I consulted with friends who had tried lip blushing themselves. Dozens of women online reported ultra-subtle results, and my friends all said the same thing: “It’s like a cute tint, but barely noticeable!”

So I made an appointment with a permanent makeup artist who was kinda ~known~ in the beauty sphere—she had impressive online coverage, lovely looking before-and-after photos, and her studio was brightly lit, lofty, and beautiful. Everything just felt right. She handed me a mirror and explained that she would first numb me up with topical lidocaine for 45 minutes, then lightly trace over the entire surface area of my lips, including the borders, and—most importantly—that it wouldn’t hurt a bit.

Usually, at this point in the appointment, your permanent makeup artist would discuss shade preferences with you—some people want lip blushing to fully change their natural lip color, while others want it to lightly define their lip shape or fill in some faded areas. But I didn’t know that at the time. I didn’t know to bring reference photos, or to show her my favorite lipstick or lip liner, or to discuss what I didn’t want at the beginning of the appointment, because she never told me to. So when she blended her own “go-to shade” without my input, I trusted her. And that was the part that now makes me cringe most about the whole procedure—even more than the pain.

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