How Crocs spent 20 years winning over fashion's shoe snobs

Crocs rock! How the world’s ugliest footwear spent 20 years winning over fashion’s shoe snobs

• This month marks the 20-year anniversary of the famous footwear brand Crocs
• Crocs have now become a high-fashion item, beloved by likes of Balenciaga 
• They were originally designed as a cheap, durable boating shoe back in 2002
• To celebrate ‘Croctober’, there is a special 20th birthday pair in shimmery silver 

This month the world’s ugliest shoe turns 20. Who would have thought Crocs — designed with holes to release the steam of its wearer, a bit like a crumpet, apparently — would become a high-fashion item, beloved by the likes of Balenciaga?

Crocs have come a long way since they first stumbled on to the market. Forget the boring primary shades of the originals; now they come in every conceivable shape, colour, pattern, style and even heel height.

To celebrate so-called ‘Croctober’, there’s a special 20th birthday pair in shimmery silver customised with metallic charms.

Despite their reputation as the Marmite of the footwear world, more than 300 million pairs have been sold, with the company on course to double its annual revenue to £4.42 billion by 2026.

Originally designed as a boating shoe, Crocs were founded by three American friends George Boedecker, Scott Seamans and Lyndon ‘Duke’ Hanson in 2002 after they came up with the idea for a cheap, durable deck shoe on a fishing trip.

Having successfully sold 200 pairs of the foam clogs at a nautical show in Florida, they decided to go global. The name came from their inspiration, crocodiles, which as amphibians can smoothly transition from land to water.

Who would have thought Crocs — designed with holes to release the steam of its wearer, a bit like a crumpet, apparently — would become a high-fashion item, beloved by the likes of Balenciaga? Model Heidi Klum (pictured) is seen parading yellow crocs in August, 2021

Despite their reputation as the Marmite of the footwear world, more than 300 million pairs have been sold, with the company on course to double its annual revenue to £4.42 billion by 2026. Pictured: Pamela Anderson dons a pair of Balenciaga mules

Crocs remarkable surge in fortunes since then has been down to several reasons. Pictured: Justin Bieber wearing Crocs

Neither plastic nor rubber, Crocs are made from a resin called Croslite. Incredibly absorbent, it’s designed to mould to your foot over time. (If you’re 21 stone, as most of its early American wearers were, this happens instantaneously.)

This wonder-material is what accounts for Crocs’ much-vaunted comfort. But that didn’t change the fact that, for years, if you were spotted wearing Crocs you were considered fashion roadkill.

The snobbery was two-fold: as well as being too ugly, they were also seen as too cheap.

A classic pair of Crocs cost around £40, and since they’re nigh-on indestructible, they could last a lifetime, making them a very democratic shoe — and anathema to the fashion world.

But while many of us turned up our noses, Crocs built a dedicated band of superfans. Medical staff, chefs, vets, farmers: anyone who spent all day on their feet loved the fact they were light, easy to clean, cheap and there was no faffing about with laces.

Though Crocs stumbled during the financial crisis of 2008, almost going out of business, the firm managed to bounce back.

Its remarkable surge in fortunes since then has been down to several reasons.

This month the world’s ugliest shoe turns 20, writes Liz Jones who is pictured wearing a classic pair of Crocs 

Crocs have collaborated with Liberty London. Pictured: Liberty London, 2020, which are £44.99

Fast-food chain KFC even partnered with Crocs to make a range printed to resemble fried chicken, with Jibbitz that looked and smelled like drumsticks. Pictured: KFC, 2020, £50

Clever and crucial, too, have been the collaborations with designer brands and celebrities, which have kept customers coming back for more. Pictured: Echo from the current collection of Crocs, £64.99

Crocs have come a long way since they first stumbled on to the market. Pictured: Balenciaga platform, 2017, £775

One was lockdown; Crocs were the perfect shoe to wear when we could walk only as far as the end of the garden, or to put the bins out.

We realised Crocs were comfy. Freed of our heels, we were like pit ponies released into a daisy field, free to gambol and frolic.

After 18 months spent wearing flats, when the world reopened we were loath to return to heels.

Yet Crocs’ success owes a lot to the founders’ savvy. Perhaps their cleverest wheeze was spotting that a couple in Colorado were decorating their children’s Crocs by placing flowers and charms in the holes. In 2005, Crocs paid Sheri and Rich Schmelzer $20 million (£17.6 million) for the patent to the idea. 

The result? People can customise their Crocs with these charms — which are called ‘Jibbitz’ (though I prefer to call these additions boils) — believing to do so imbues them with a personality.

Fast-food chain KFC even partnered with Crocs to make a range printed to resemble fried chicken, with Jibbitz that looked and smelled like drumsticks.

We realised Crocs were comfy. Freed of our heels, we were like pit ponies released into a daisy field, free to gambol and frolic. Pictured: Gumboots for flood-stricken Australians

Though Crocs stumbled during the financial crisis of 2008, almost going out of business, the firm managed to bounce back. Pictured: Platform soles from Kurt Geiger, 2021

Big-name fans include fashionista Trinny Woodall, supermodel Heidi Klum, singer Ariana Grande and actress Priyanka Chopra. Pictured: Balenciaga heeled mule, 2022, £450

To celebrate so-called ‘Croctober’, there’s a special 20th birthday pair in shimmery silver customised with metallic charms (pictured)

These charms are traded online, much as children used to swap marbles. Clearly, we’ve lost ours.

Clever and crucial, too, have been the collaborations with designer brands and celebrities, which have kept customers coming back for more.

It was all kicked off by British designer Christopher Kane, when he sent marbled Crocs to match his clothes down a surprised catwalk in 2016. A year later, Balenciaga’s 4in platform Crocs sold out in days, despite the £850 price tag. Its current high-heel hybrid, the Crocs Madame, sells for £450.

Other collaborations have been with Liberty London, designer Vivienne Tam and celebrities including singer Justin Bieber and actress Drew Barrymore.

They are also part of the current mania for ‘ugly’ shoes, a move away from the ladylike pointy heels so beloved of Sex And The City’s Carrie Bradshaw.

‘We have existed on this tension point between love and hate,’ explains Lucy Thornley, Crocs’ vice-president of global trend, design and product management. ‘We’ve leaned into it.’

Crocs has also teamed up with Barneys New York, 2019 in what was a punk-inspired makeover

They are as indestructible as a cockroach after a nuclear holocaust. Exactly what we need right now. Pictured: Lazy Oaf croc, £104.99

The Classic Cozzy croc is another form that the shoe comes in. These can be purchased for £44.99

Another pair from Barneys New York feature a blue denim print that’s matched with smooth black leather on the toe portion – these are £75

Big-name fans include fashionista Trinny Woodall, supermodel Heidi Klum, singer Ariana Grande and actress Priyanka Chopra.

The Princess of Wales and Prince George have both been pictured wearing them; I’m wondering if, like Helen Mirren’s, they are bedecked with the Union flag.

Crocs even made it on to the red carpet, worn by female stars including Hunger Games actress Jena Malone, who felt that championing the #MeToo movement while teetering in a pair of heels was somehow counter-intuitive.

So are you tempted? If so, you must wear the hinged strap leaning forward over the tongue of the shoe, not backwards like a heel strap (don’t ask me why. It’s how Madonna wears hers).

But some women’s heads can never be turned. ‘Will I be wearing Crocs?’ Victoria Beckham asked her 30 million Instagram followers after Justin Bieber gifted her a lilac pair. ‘I think I’d rather die.’

But I’ve got a confession to make. Having always refused to walk alongside my friend, Isobel, who is wedded to her pair, I have finally succumbed. She gave me a pair of black classic Crocs as a joke, but you know what? They’re quick to slip on and even my chewy collie can’t destroy them.

They are as indestructible as a cockroach after a nuclear holocaust. Exactly what we need right now.

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